|
Quilting - a stitch directory of kantha.
Kantha comprises of the simplest stitch in the language of embroidery - the running stitch. It is the way in which this stitch is used, in different arrangements, that forms the complex vocabulary of kantha.
Originally it was used to join layers of old saris, to make quilts. It was also used as a means of self expression by both urban and rural women in Bengal.
The Sanskrit word
kontha means 'rags.' One legend links their origins to Lord Buddha and
his disciples, who used to cover themselves with garments made from discarded
rags that were patched and sewn together. Rags displayed at Indian shrines
or tied to tree limbs symbolize prayers and wards off the evil eye. The
oldest extant kantha date from the early 1800s and is embroidered with
blue, black and red threads that were unraveled from sari borders. Because
they were salvaged from used garments that had been frequently laundered,
the colors tend to be muted.
There are seven different
types of kantha:
- Lep kantha
are rectangular wraps heavily padded to make warm coverlets. The entire
piece would be stitched in wavy, rippled designs over which simple embroidery
was executed.
- Sujani kantha
are rectangular pieces of cloth used as blankets or spreads on
ceremonial occasions.
- Baiton kantha
are square wraps used for covering books and other valuables. They
are elaborately patterned with borders of several rows of colorful designs.
- Oaar kantha
are rectangular pillow covers in simple designs with a decorative
border sewn around the edges.
- Archilata kantha
are small, rectangular covers for mirrors or toilet accessories with
wide, colorful borders in assorted motifs.
- Durjani/thalia
kantha are small rectangles with a central lotus design and embroidered
borders. Three corners of the rectangle are folded inward to form a
wallet.
- Rumal kantha
are used as absorbent wipes or plate coverings. They also feature a
central lotus with ornamented borders.
The
kantha in its simplest form was invented out of necessity and made in
varying sizes and layers, starting with small pieces of cloth spread in
the courtyard to lay new born babies on while they were massaged with
mustard oil, to the light covers that adults use at night, and wrap over
their shoulders in winter mornings.
Kantha
was almost never made for money, and the idea of using this embroidery
commercially, originated more in urban groups where young women were trained
from scratch, rather than from women who have done this work all their
lives. There was a growing interest in this craft form in the 1980s and
Sasha did a lot of research that culminated in several exhibitions. They
also became involved in groups who started making kanthas commercially
for the first time. Most of these women did not have a formal education
and rarely went out of their villages.
When
these groups formed, they didn't need further training in embroidery,
but they needed to learn accounting, management, raw material buying etc.
Self-Help Handicrafts Society (a sister concern of Sasha's) was involved
in the development of all these groups and shared their experiences and
knowledge. Other things also changed with commercial work. They used frames
to hold the fabric. The old way of several women working on one large
piece of work however continued. They learnt about tracing designs (which
they never did before, earlier, they just drew the designs straight on
the fabric with a pencil) and money management.
Many
women in rural Bengal do a lot of kantha work for traders in Calcutta.
But the women who work with Sasha feel that they are doing work of a very
high quality and that is something they are very proud of. They feel they
are specialists and their work cannot easily be done by anyone else. Also
the feeling of belonging to a small and exclusive group is very important.
Most of these women have grandchildren and they do all the housework,
look after various domestic animals, children etc. So they often need
to put in extra hours at night to complete a rush order
|
